House-hunting in Delhi

Finding accommodation in Delhi was one of our first tasks.

Before leaving the UK, we had arranged to visit a flat in Nizamuddin East rented for a long time by the organisation. The landlord was keen that the tradition continue. He is based in the US and feels safer with the flat being used by a proper person with a proper job in a proper organisation.

The flat was nice and the landlord seemed more than willing to accommodate us. You want the third room too? No problem. A place to put boxes that may not be opened? No problem, I have a room upstairs. Want to move into the flat quickly? No problem.

When the office accountant called up to finalise the deal, the landlord mentioned the terms. Not only did he want a higher rent, but that the organisation pick up his tax liability and provide accommodation as the third room was used by him - once or twice a year, for a couple of nights - during his trips from US to Kashmir and back.

It seemed totally unreasonable and we started proper house-hunting straightaway. Friends suggested some estate agents, and the phone started buzzing immediately. Where do you want to live, Sir? Nizamuddin East, Defence Colony, Panchsheel Park. And you want a furnished accommodation? We would prefer that. OK, Sir. We will call back soon.

One of the first flats we saw was recently done up unfurnished accommodation in Nizamuddin East. The landlady asked how long we wanted to rent the flat for. "One year," both me and my wife said. The landlady went silent. When we stepped out, the agent said, "Sir, aapne game bigaad diya" (You spoilt the game). You should have told her you need the house for two years. Once you had the house, you could have left it at one month's notice". All our protestations about being honest in the transaction didn't work. "This won't work here, sir".

There were two other houses in the same place. The first one was nice and furnished and the landlord was a Sikh gentleman. The rent seemed affordable and we were keen to sign up quickly. "I would need the two months' advance and rent in cash," he said. So what proof do I have of the deposit or of paying you a rent? "You have to trust my word". Trust your word with so much money?

The next one was still under construction. It had one of those big medical storage refrigerators apart from loads of sawdust and construction-workers around. "This flat isn't ready, is it" we asked. This one is, but the upper floors are still being constructed. And how long do you think this will take? Can't tell you, but can check with the landlord.

Thereafter, started a longer hop-on hop-off house-hunting trip across South Delhi - most of it done by my wife. She saw a house which seemed to have borrowed its furniture from wedding organisers. The furniture had thick decorative golden edges, red-black upholstery and a throne-like structure to it. Another house was opened to her for inspection by the landlord - unaware that his wife was sitting stark naked on the toilet. My wife ran straight out.

Another landlord asked what her caste was. A "furnished house" just had a refrigerator and a few chairs in it. Where are the beds? To which the estate agent, said - "Don't worry, madam. That can be organised for a little more money. Just look at this place as an accommodation". Yes, that is precisely what I am looking at this as.

A house in Nizamuddin West seemed newly-built. "We have the ground floor and second floor flat available for rent," the care-taker said. The ground floor seemed nice and spacious but wasn't furnished. "The second-floor flat is furnished". As we walk to the stairs, the care-taker insisted, "Please take the lift". When the doors closed, it was completely dark. There was no light in the lift. Reaching the second floor seemed to take forever, especially with a scared three-year old.

The second floor looked good too. So we asked to see the landlord. He is on his way. 15 minutes later. He is on his way. 25 minutes later. He is on his way. What does he do? He works. Where does he work? He works in different places. Who does he work for? Can't tell you.

Then one of the agents called up excitedly - Does it suit you to have an accommodation near Khan Market or Jantar Mantar? Of course, it does. "Shall we meet at the first property by 3.00 pm? Sure. Half-an-hour of waiting and no one turns up. The estate agent is as clueless as me. We got the reference through another broker. He said the care-taker would be here. Do you want to see the other flat? Yes. But are you sure that isn't locked as well? Absolutely sure, sir.

Not exactly. After waiting for 10 minutes, I couldn't take any more. As I turned to go, the caretaker magically arrived. The flat was bang in the heart of Delhi - just 15 minutes' walk from the office. There was just one problem. It was being used as an office in the past and the main bathroom had a series of men's urinals. I mean, at one level it looks really cool. A bathroom like no one else's. But you surely can't invite families to a flat like that.

It wasn't looking promising. So, we decided to push ahead with our really short shorlist of two houses - shown to us by the only "professional" estate agent. She arranged for us to see the landlords and we decided to go for Anand Niketan. It is just across the road from the best parts of Delhi, has some really good schools around it and is not too far away from my parents.

More importantly, and so I hear, the locality has some Israeli nationals living there. "So there are a lot of plain-clothes Mossad men keeping an eye," a journalist friend whispered to us.

The place sure has a lot of guards, hired by individual house-owners - but I am yet to come across a Mossad man.