Swapping searing Delhi for cool hills

Took a small four-day break in the hills last week. Actually, more like two-and-a-half days - as the rest was spent driving up the hills and coming back to Delhi.

As with most of our holidays, this too was planned at the last moment. The accommodation advice came courtesy of a friend. He recommended this estate called Sonapani, which is in the Nainital district of the northern state of Uttarakhand.

A quick search on the internet for Himalayan Village revealed an interesting destination. The website said - Situated at a height 2000 metres, Sonapani hosts an orchard of apricot, apple, plum and peach while oak, rhododendron & pine jungle surround it from all around.

The only problem was it is almost 30 minutes' walk from where the car could be parked, which could be a problem with a four-year-old.

"Don't worry. We have ponies to ferry the luggage and little ones," the owner Ashish told me over the phone. More importantly, he had a room available from Sunday. So, I booked the room for three nights, with the possibility of extending the stay if need be.

That left the issue of transport to be sorted out. Summer is a bad time for train journeys in north India. Not because of heat, but because the schools are closed for summer. There is no chance of getting reservation on any train headed anywhere. I have learned this the hard during the past month or so.

Luckily, Nainital is only 280-odd kilometres from Delhi. So, I checked with the local taxi guy if we could hire a car-with-driver. He had one available and we agreed mutually-acceptable terms.

On Saturday noon, the taxi guy called up to say his car had developed some problems. "Would you mind travelling in a smaller car?" he asked me. Of course, I did, considering the journey was likely to be more than eight hours.

A few more phone calls later, another car had been arranged and we were all set for our 4.00 am set about to Sonapani.

I was half-expecting the driver not to turn up at the agreed time and wasn't disappointed. On calling his mobile, a sleepy voice said - Sir, can you give me directions to your house? I will be there in 10 minutes. That actually meant 30 minutes and we were on our way by 4.30 am.

A little while later, I realised we were driving along the wrong highway. On checking with the driver, he said - "This highway goes to Haridwar and Rishikesh and we can make our way to Nainital from there".

I couldn't understand the logic of taking a crowded and longer route when we had a more direct and easier route available. But talking to Jat gentleman from Haryana isn't easy. It needed some strong words to get him to change the route and come to NH24, which goes past Hapur, Moradabad and Rampur before reaching Haldwani at the base of the Kumaon hills.

NH24 turned out to be quite different from the highways encountered during my earlier trips. Most of the stretch is single-lane and one particular bit, near Rampur, had a two-mile long traffic jam about 10 in the morning.

We took a small break after getting through the jam. Had some sumptuous stuffed paranthas and tea on a roadside eatery.

By 11 we were at the foothills. Ashish from Himalayan Village had asked us to call him on reaching Haldwani. "It will take you another three hours from there," he said.

The distance isn't that much but 40-odd kilometre from Haldwani is an uphill climb along really narrow road. Along the way, the little one felt mountain-sick once or twice, but did not actually throw up.

We got to Sonapani around 2.30 pm or so. Unfortunately, this was earlier than Ashish had assumed it will be, so no ponies were available. The walk to the Sonapani Estate seemed longer than usual after a nearly 10 hour road trip.

But the place was absolutely stunning. Surrounded by woods and an orchard, the property consists of eight cottages - with their own private front yard. The rooms are tastefully done and the bathrooms are equipped with gas-fired water heaters.

The guests come together in the dinning hall and the barbecue area, which are located on the same level as Ashish's house. On a clear day, you have a clear view of the snow-capped Himalayan mountain range from here.

Ashish is a natural host and enjoys entertaining people. His staff is quite well-trained and cooks some really amazing food - Indian and continental. All of them work really hard, from about 6 in the morning till midnight, but always smiling.

Almost all the stuff used in the kitched is sourced locally and the place does some really interesting concoctions for herbal tea. There is no TV and no newspapers, just natural sounds, your family and possibly a book for company.

Needless to add, we had quite a pleasant stay at the property. The little one found many girls her age to play with, while my better half and I could go for walk in the woods.

It was painful to come back to searing Delhi, but don't we all wish that vacations would last forever.